ABS Hub Removal, Brake Clearance and Hub Replacement
- Support the RV safely and remove the hub without dropping the outer bearing.
- Set brake clearance using the documented starwheel and automatic-lever procedure.
- Seat and secure the replacement hub, then complete wheel attachment and rechecks.
- Floor jack and adequate jack stands — Lift and support the RV at frame locations specified by its manufacturer, never by the axle or suspension.
- Socket set and ratchet — Remove wheel fasteners and the spindle nut; hand-start fasteners during assembly.
- Torque wrench — Apply the spindle-nut seating torque and the wheel-fastener torque stages specified in the applicable documentation.
- Screwdrivers — Operate the starwheel and hold the automatic adjusting lever clear when backing off the adjustment.
- Pliers — Remove the discarded cotter pin and bend the new cotter pin to retain the spindle nut.
- Rubber mallet — Seat the dust cap after the spindle nut is secured.
Before starting, verify that the replacement parts are correct and complete. The ABS hub illustration identifies a sensor, shims, brake, hub drum, spindle washer, castle nut, cotter pin and dust cap, but the manual cautions that actual assemblies may differ. Lift and support the RV according to its manufacturer’s requirements, using the frame rather than the axle or suspension.
Remove the lug nuts, wheel and dust cap. Pull out and discard the cotter pin, then remove the spindle nut and washer. During hub removal, retain the outer bearing with a hand over the hub nose or remove the outer bearing cone first. Brake adjustment may need to be backed off to release the hub.
Lippert identifies these electric brakes as automatically adjusting, while providing a manual procedure when needed. With the RV safely supported, remove the rubber plug from the backing-plate adjustment slot. Expand the shoes with the starwheel until the wheel becomes very difficult to turn, then reverse the starwheel until the wheel rotates freely with slight lining drag. A second screwdriver holds the automatic adjusting lever away while backing off the starwheel.
For hub replacement, install the hub assembly, spindle washer and spindle nut. Rotate the hub while tightening the spindle nut to 50 ft-lb (68 Nm), then loosen the nut and bring it back only to finger-tight snugness. This initial torque is a seating operation, not the final retained nut setting.
Install a new cotter pin. If the hole and nut slot do not align, loosen the nut slightly until the pin fits rather than tightening it further. Bend the pin to retain the nut and seat the dust cap with a rubber mallet. For wheel attachment, start fasteners by hand, follow the illustrated sequential pattern and use a torque wrench in stages; check and re-torque after 10, 25 and 50 miles.
How It Works
Controlled removal protects components
Verify replacement parts against the actual assembly before starting; the illustration identifies the sensor, shims and hub hardware, but actual assemblies may differ. Support the RV by its frame according to manufacturer requirements, and keep people and vehicles clear before testing or adjusting brakes. During withdrawal, cover the hub nose with a hand or remove the outer bearing cone first so the bearing cannot fall and become damaged or contaminated.
Automatic adjustment still requires correct clearance
These electric brakes adjust automatically, but the documented manual procedure establishes clearance when needed: expand the shoes until wheel rotation is very difficult, then reverse the starwheel until rotation is free with slight lining drag. Hold the automatic adjusting lever away with a second screwdriver while backing off, because the lever normally resists reverse starwheel movement. Excessive lining contact creates frictional heat; replace the adjustment-slot plug and apply the same clearance procedure to the remaining brakes.
Seating torque is not the retained setting
After installing the hub, spindle washer and nut, rotate the hub while tightening the spindle nut to 50 ft-lb (68 Nm), then loosen it and bring it back only to finger-tight snugness; rotation helps the bearing components settle during seating. Install a new cotter pin, loosening the nut slightly if needed for alignment rather than tightening it further, because additional tightening can impose unwanted bearing preload. Bend the pin, seat the dust cap, then hand-start wheel fasteners and use the documented pattern and torque stages; check and re-torque after 10, 25 and 50 miles.
Step-by-Step Procedure
0/8 doneABS Hub Service Numbers
| Initial spindle-nut seating torque | 50 ft-lb (68 Nm), followed by loosening and finger-tight adjustment |
| Wheel fastener rechecks | 10, 25 and 50 miles |
Diagnostic Chart
| Symptom | Check | Spec / Expected | Likely cause & fix |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hub resists withdrawal after the spindle hardware is removed. | Confirm the outer bearing is controlled and check whether the brake shoes are holding the drum; back off the brake adjustment if needed. | Retain the outer bearing with a hand over the hub nose or remove the outer bearing cone before withdrawing the hub. | Brake shoe contact may prevent the drum from clearing the brake assembly. Basis: ccd-0011131 |
| Starwheel will not reverse during manual clearance adjustment. | Check whether the automatic adjusting lever is engaged with the starwheel and hold it clear with a second screwdriver. | Expand until wheel rotation is very difficult, then back off until the wheel rotates freely with slight lining drag. | The automatic adjusting lever may be blocking reverse starwheel movement. Basis: ccd-0011131 |
| Spindle nut remains at seating torque after hub installation. | Verify that the seating operation was followed by loosening and finger-tight adjustment. | 50 ft-lb (68 Nm), followed by loosening and finger-tight adjustment. | The initial seating torque was mistaken for the final retained nut setting. Basis: ccd-0011131 |
| New cotter pin will not pass through the spindle hole and nut slot. | Check alignment after the nut has been loosened and returned to finger-tight snugness. | Loosen the nut slightly until the pin fits; do not tighten it further for alignment. | The nut slot and spindle hole are not aligned at the finger-tight position. Basis: ccd-0011131 |
At the Bay: Diagnose the Case
CASE 1 / 4
Hub resists withdrawal after the spindle hardware is removed.
- Test
- Compare
- Correct
Select the next check
Basis: ccd-0011131. A likely cause is a hypothesis; confirm it with the applicable service procedure before repair.
Common Bay Mistakes
- ✕ Assuming the illustration guarantees replacement-part compatibility.
- ✕ Supporting the RV by the axle or suspension instead of the frame.
- ✕ Leaving the spindle nut at seating torque or tightening it for cotter-pin alignment.
- ✕ Reusing the removed cotter pin or skipping wheel-fastener rechecks.
Quick Check
Practice only — not scored.
Plan the Service Sequence
Planning practice only. Follow the applicable manufacturer's instructions, employer safety program and qualified supervision on real equipment.
Plan the first action. Compare the service steps with the bay mistakes.
Hands-on: Shop Test Equipment
Dial Indicator — Bearing End Play
Magnetic-base dial indicator (0.001 in) on the hub face, spindle nut adjustment
🛠 Equip your bay for this test →Symptom: Bearing service — set end play after repack.
Spec limits used
- 0.001–0.010 in — Allowable end play, double-nut wheel end (Dexter 9-15K service manual, p.64)
- 0.008 in — Nev-R-Lube 50 mm max axial end play (Dexter 059-831-00)
- illustrative only — Face runout limit (General shop practice)
Simulated readings for practice. Always follow the manufacturer's procedure and values on a real trailer.
Source: ccd-0011131 — 3-8